One of my favorite musicals is 1776, not only because American history fascinates me, but because of one extraordinary song sung unforgettably by John Collum: "Molasses to Rum to Slaves." Collum portrayed Edward Rutledge, a South Carolina signer of the Declaration of Independence.
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It delighted me to find, during my recent first visit to Charleston, that Edward Rutledge's home is here and so is his older brother John's home, now a bed-and-breakfast called John Rutledge House Inn. John was Governor of South Carolina, a signer of the U.S. Constitution and the second Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.
The exterior of John Rutledge's house, built ca. 1763, features gorgeous wrought ironwork, a popular design element in Charleston. History and charm cling to Charleston like necklaces of moss embellishing graceful live oaks, but when I think of this Low Country city, I'll remember the intricate verdigris wrought iron step rails, posts, balconies and fencing that repeats itself in front of homes and buildings.
I'll also remember the often-exquisite architecture of structures like the boutique Mills House Hotel, built in 1853 and epitomizing luxurious southern hospitality, and the majestic white steeple rising from St. Michael's Episcopal Church, which was erected in 1761. George Washington worshipped there during his tour of the South in 1791 and John Rutledge is buried on the church grounds.
Charleston is known as the Holy City, thanks to its ubiquitous houses of worship, several of which date to the 1700s. Among them is Congregation Beth Elohim. It is the birthplace of American Reform Judaism, America's fourth oldest synagogue and considered to be one of our nation's finest examples of Greek Revival architecture.
The grand architecture continues with majestic houses rising along The Battery overlooking the Cooper River and featuring cozy side-porches/verandas that residents refer to as piazzas. Horse-drawn carriages transport tourists across cobblestone streets; plaques identify the relentless lineup of historic homes; park statues and monuments honor local notables, including Andrew Jackson's mother, who lived in Charleston.
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Few southern cities possess as much Colonial/Revolutionary War/Civil War heritage as Charleston. Open for tours are Heyward-Washington House, visited by George Washington and owned by Thomas Heyward Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence (later imprisoned by the British); Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began; also, Patriot's Point, home of the aircraft carrier Yorktown's Medal of Honor Museum.
Charleston is contradictory: lively and serene, modern and historic, sturdy and delicate, but the contradictions harmonize so beautifully. And oh, the splendor of the ante-bellum plantation homes, especially Middleton Place. This 1700s rice plantation on the winding Ashley River is a National Historic Landmark. It includes a stately mansion (now a house-museum) and what is touted as America's oldest landscaped gardens.
Symmetrical, verdant and vibrant, the gardens are lush, vast and tranquil, a perfect appendage to a plantation that reflects the often-breathtaking beauty of the Low Country.
Shopping at the Old City Market or the King Street boutiques; taking architecture, ghost, history or water tours; feasting on regional cuisine at the upscale Peninsula Grill on Market Street or innovative specialties at the casual Hominy Grill on Rutledge Avenue; strolling shaded streets rich with manicured homes and gardens -- Charleston's menu of attractions was too big to fit into my schedule. I plan to return - again and again.
For more information, contact the Charleston Area CVB at 1-800-774-0006.
Roberta Sandler is an award-winning writer/author. Her newest book is A Brief Guide to Florida's Monuments and Memorials, published by University Press of Florida. She and her husband live in Wellington, FL.